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Thread: old radio, new truck

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    old radio, new truck

    Had to buy something economical to drive to work (50 miles a day), got a 96 Ford Ranger. 102 out back, Connex 4800 and TS667 inside. Old bracket I made a couple years ago mounts to the seat bolt. in the pic the shifter is in reverse, there's actually plenty of room to shift, adjust the a/c and radio. Anybody wants a ride, they have to squeeze in, a man's gotta have priorities, ya know
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9wire View Post
    Had to buy something economical to drive to work (50 miles a day), got a 96 Ford Ranger. 102 out back, Connex 4800 and TS667 inside. Old bracket I made a couple years ago mounts to the seat bolt. in the pic the shifter is in reverse, there's actually plenty of room to shift, adjust the a/c and radio. Anybody wants a ride, they have to squeeze in, a man's gotta have priorities, ya know
    .20130728_194428.jpg
    I know how ya feel.I gave up my 86 GMC high sierra with a jasper 350 and trans with 3" straight pipes and cherry bombs. Now I drive a Chevy s10 here's all I got to say to fuel prices
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    That works for me 9wire.


    From the looks of that blue mic cord Iím guessin there is a turner +2 or +3 on the talking end.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9wire View Post
    Had to buy something economical to drive to work (50 miles a day), got a 96 Ford Ranger. 102 out back, Connex 4800 and TS667 inside. Old bracket I made a couple years ago mounts to the seat bolt. in the pic the shifter is in reverse, there's actually plenty of room to shift, adjust the a/c and radio. Anybody wants a ride, they have to squeeze in, a man's gotta have priorities, ya know
    .20130728_194428.jpg
    It looks like your cutting it close on room for the shifter
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    You hook up your whole cb system and texas star 667 with the trucks stock alternater. I got a 2004 Ford Ranger stick shift also the space is the last thing on my mind. It's been the alternater I been thinking about. And now that I see the way you have it set up. I'm
    Going to have someone make me a bracket like yours. The other system under your cb is a swr meter or watt meter. ????
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    9wire has not logged onto the forum since October of 2014 so he probably won't be seeing your question. Yes, under his Connex radio is a cheap Radio Shack SWR/watt meter. You will have to check and see what the output is from your vehicles alternator. Then start adding up what vehicle electronics you have as well as the amperage draw from your amp and radio. Then you can decide if you need a bigger alternator or not. Off hand I would say if you plan on running a TS500 or 667 you will want a strong battery and at least 125 amp or better alternator.
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    I have a Toyota Tacoma, and the alternator is only a 65 amp...It will work with a Texas Star 667 as long as I also have a second battery hooked up...Mater-a-fact, it worked using a Davemade 2x4 just fine...BUT, had to have a second battery hooked up, which I had in my toolbox, then ran charging wires back to the main battery under the hood...However, I don't have that set-up anymore...battery finally gave-up (it was old when I put it in the toolbox to start with tho), and since I didn't want to buy a new battery, I decided to drop down to just a XForce 2-pill, and it works just fine with the 65 amp alternator and just the trucks battery...

    Tacoma set-up...2-pill is in the toolbox, so I have a remote switch inside the cab to switch it on.

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    I'm going to have to check my alternater, I really hope it's a bigger one cause the 2 battery thing I don't know how to do that kind of set up I don't want to end up blowing my self up. I'm Going to let Flash Electronic handle that for me. But I hope it's a 135 amp alt. Flash is a local cb shop I Tulare, calif. If you're ever in the california area and need a cb shop Flash Dave is the man you want. Good honest man
    Last edited by chu gie boogie; 10-06-2017 at 11:04 PM.
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    two battery deal is no big deal...just need to figure out a place to set the second battery where it can't vent gas back into the cab area. (toolboxs in the bed work just fine for this) Then get a battery holder from your local auto-parts store to secure the battery...then wire the second battery back to the factory battery so it can charge and add the extra amps to your electrical system to power your amp...basically what your doing is doubling the amount of amperage needed to power the radio equipment... You "can" use a jumper cable (like what you would use to jump-start your car when the battery is dead) to run from the second battery to the factory battery...just cut off the cables clamps that normally would be used for jump-starts, and add terminal-clamps that will let you attach the cables to the battery's.

    "Positive to positive, negative to negative"...

    Other option would be to buy a larger amp alternator...If you go this route, you may want to also swamp-out the charge wire that connects on the back of the alternator and runs to the battery...

    Sometimes this wire doesn't run from alternator to battery, but rather it go's to the trucks computer first, then back to the battery...IN THIS CASE, you would need to re-route the wire so it runs to the battery first...Leave the wire that runs from computer to battery in-place so computer will still get powered...just do-away with wire going from alternator to computer.
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